Chicken campagnola, on the bone, with sausages, potatoes, peppers and mushrooms, and enough garlic to keep the vampires from Anne Rice, is a gutsy, bracing affair. You also can go the Parmigiana, Francese, Marsala or cacciatore route. The pork chop Milanese, dutifully pounded and crisp, is a tasty alternative to the familiar veal version. There's veal piccata for the shy diners. In case you still have a lycopene deficiency, they make the pork pizzaiola, too.
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